Sid and Charley - Northern Swell
(0 Ratings)
RATING: 5.7 C0 or 5.10+
LENGTH: I
GEAR: 1 - 60m rope, quickdraws, light rack of gear for getting to the first bolt or stick clip
MAPS: Sid and Charley, UT
SEASON: Any, hot in the summer
NOTES: The road requires a high clearance vehicle. It is typically not very rough, but has sections of deep ruts best negotiated in a high clearance or 4x4 vehicle. A carefully drive Subaru Outback reached the trailhead without difficulty.
Note: If your hoping for good pictures, climbing in the evening is recommended.
Note: If your hoping for good pictures, climbing in the evening is recommended.
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| WAYPOINTS: | ||
| Sid & Charley | 12S 500268mE 4311654mN | |
| Sid & Charley Side Road | 12S 499456mE 4306467mN | |
Hype
Sid and Charley, named after brothers Sid and Charley Swasey whom lived in the Swell in the early 1900's, is an Entrada tower standing in a lonely north western corner of the Swell. The tower is infrequently visited, but makes a great outing. It was first climbed in 2001 by Layne Potter at a grade of 5.10 C0, then later free'd at a rated 5.10+. That being said, if your not too proud to pull on bolts (and possibly use a stick clip), this can be done at a very moderate 5.7 C0 or so. The climbing is surprisingly fun, with great exposure and position. The summit offers commanding views over the northern Swell and Cedar Mountain in the distance.The trailhead doesn't offer any shade, but is otherwise very good, solitary camping.
Trailhead
The first step, is getting to Moore. This very small community is about 50 miles south of Price Utah on UT-10, or just north of I-70, past the town of Emery. From Moore, take the Moore cut-off road that connects Moore to I-70. This is a paved, 2 lane road. Follow it about 10 miles from Moore to where a side road comes in on both sides, almost across from each other.Take the road on the north (left). It passes through a gate in 0.2 miles, Continue, passing another gate at 2.5 miles. Finally, and 3.1 miles, you will reach a junction, with Sid and Charley visible on your left. Go left, following the road 0.25 miles to a parking area a short distance from the base of the tower.
Route
The climb starts on the east side, up the obvious chimney between the two formations. Stem up to the first bolt, about 25 or so feet up. Although the climbing is easier than it likely appears from the ground, climbing part way and stick clipping the bolt is relatively easy. Two bolts bring you around a constriction in the chimney, and to an apparent anchor. (1 bolt / 1 piton) Either belay here, or back clean a bit to reduce rope drag.The route now traverses right, on closely spaced bolts, to a chimney. Head up the chimney on bolts to the summit and register.
1-60m rope is plenty for getting down.
Photos (click on photo for more detail)
Maps
