Hype:

Thumbing through Desert Rock 4 toward the end of a climbing weekend in Moab, I spied Monticello Butte. A surprisingly moderate route at 5.7, it had a 4 star rating and seemed perfect for ending the weekend. The climbing didn't seem 4 star to either Jim or I, but the views are pretty incredible.

Trailhead:

Getting to Monticello Butte requires a high clearance vehicle. The last mile or so is very rough 4x4 road. We parked within sight of the butte, but didn't make the last 1/2 mile or so drive due to the roughness of the road.

Head North on the highway out of Moab toward I-70. From the Colorado River bridge, reset your odometer. About 7 miles from the bridge, turn left (west) onto the signed Gemini Bridges road.

Stay on the main Gemini Bridges road for 4.7 miles to the signed Gold Bar Rim junction. Right goes up a steep hill and to Gemini Bridges. You go left here instead, following a wash, then exiting up a steep hill. Monticello Butte is visible at the top of this hill, and is less than a mile or so from the Gold Bar Rim / Gemini Bridges junction. This stretch of road is very rough, and may need to be walked unless you have a real 4x4 or disregard for your vehicle.

Route:

September 16, 2007
Climbers: Ryan Cornia and Jim Schnepal
Written By: Ryan Cornia

Pitch 1:

The climb starts on the west side. It is easily identified as a slot with a bush about half way up. The slot is low angled and easy until you reach a bulge about 3/4 of the way up. This is where I placed gear, chimneyed over the bulge, then it is easier ground to a crack up high where you can get gear in for a belay.

After this pitch, it is an easy scramble to the west summit. The summit has some amazing views. Reaching the east summit requires a bit of easy, but unprotected lower 5th class climbing (and down climbing).

Getting Down:

The guide book described a long, 2-rope overhanging rappel to get off. While this is an option off the south/west side, we found slings on a tree on the north/east side of the formation. This provides an easy rappel and only requires one rope. The rap is 25 m ( 83 ft ) or so.

Although I found the climbing uninspiring, the views are well worth it, and it is a truly moderate summit to get on top of in the desert. Enjoy!

Photos:

Maps:

Download map(s): Map 1 Map 2

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